Top perfume Classification ( Dilution classes )

 

 

 

 

 

 

(1) Top Perfume Classification (Dilution Classes)

 

 

 

Fragrance Defined: Parfum vs. EDP (Perfume) vs. EDT (Toilette) vs. EDC (Cologne)

 

 

     Ah, the vicissitudes of perfume jargon. There's a surfeit of terms out there, but little explanation of what the heck any of it means. In a given department store, you'll find parfum, extrait de parfum, liqueur de parfum, eau de parfum, cologne, eau de toilette, body splash, aftershave, and the list goes on. And while they might all just seem like variations on the same thing, in reality, they each have a precise, established meaning and optimal use. Fortunately, learning the terminology is easy and painless. Never be confused in the fragrance department again when you keep reading.

 

     All the fragrance terms listed above are actually just designators for different dilutions of perfume oil. Fragrances are, in a nutshell, blends of different plant oils and synthetic oils, but to make them spritzable and less overwhelmingly potent, perfumers water them down with (usually) ethyl alcohol. So when someone talks about and eau de parfum or an eau de toilette, what they're really talking about is just an oil to alcohol ratio. Here's a fast breakdown of what those ratios mean, from strongest to most dilute,

 

 

Parfum/Extrait de parfum

 

     Don't let the terminology confuse you; these two are actually the same thing. You'll get a scent that's between 15 and 40 percent (but typically 20 percent) fragrance oil. These last the longest, but often don't have the same big scent "trail" that more dilute eau de parfums do. If you absolutely love a fragrance already, try the parfum. It's usually going to magnify everything you like about the scent, but make it even richer and more complex.

 

Eau de parfum/millésime/parfum de toilette

 

     This is what most people consider "perfume," and it's the standard dilution level for women's fragrances, clocking in at between 10 and 20 percent oil (although almost always less than 15). EDPs tend to be the scents that are most noticeable to others, making them great for dates but not always optimal if you work in close quarters or spend a lot of time in the heat, which makes the smell even stronger.

 

Eau de toilette

 

     These are your go-tos for warm weather or inoffensive everyday wear. They're usually less than 10 percent oil, although they can be anywhere from five to15, and they provide a lighter, slightly less complex scent than an EDP does. Fragrance counter people often position EDTs as "inferior" to EDPs, because they're lower priced, but that's simply not the case. They both have a function, and lots of scents are actually preferable in their EDT form. Don't let a sales pitch keep you from trying both, because the less expensive EDT could very well be a nicer fragrance. They're also a great "entry" to a scent; if you're not sure you'll adore a fragrance or it's a big investment, buy the EDT.

 

Eau de cologne

 

     These aren't just for men, and they're a great choice if you want something extremely fresh and light that you can use in more than a couple of places. EDCs usually have about 5 percent fragrance oil in them, but range from 3 to 8 percent concentration. This means that some overlap with EDTs; usually the difference is either that the scent is gendered or that the cologne has lots of citrus notes, since that's historically part of the cologne recipe and the meaning is still sort of there.

 

Body splash/aftershave

 

     These are the most dilute, coming in at between 1 and 3 percent fragrance oil. They're made to be worn all over and reapplied frequently, which makes them great for sweaty days at the beach, going hiking, freshening up after the gym, etc.

 

 

 

Source: Flickr User ayelienne

 

 

 

 

 

(2) What does EDT, EDP, EDC, etc.. means? PERFUME TIPS

 

 

 

     What does Eau De Toilette, Eau de Parfum, etc... mean? These terms refer to the strength of the fragrance, or more specifically, to how much high grade alcohol and/or water that has been added to the fragrance oils. Parfum (generally the most concentrated form you can buy) has 15-25% perfume oil dissolved in alcohol. Any mixture with a lower proportion of oil to alcohol is known as an Eau.

 

Eau Fraiche (Usually 3% or less perfume oil)

 

Eau de cologne - EDC (2 - 5% perfume oil)

 

Eau de toilette - EDT (4 - 10% perfume oil)

 

Eau de parfum - EDP (8 - 15% perfume oil)

 

Soie de Parfum (15 - 18% perfume oil)

 

PARFUM (15 - 25% -- also sometimes referred to as Extract or Extrait)

 

Perfume oil (15-30% perfume oil in an oil rather than alcohol base)

 

You may also see the term Parfum de Toilette.  Most companies use this term to describe a concentration that is either the same as Eau De Parfum, or between Eau De Parfum and Parfum.

 

 

FORMS OF FRAGRANCES
FROM	FRAGRANCE  CONCENTRATION %	HOURS TO  LAST ON SKIN
PERFUME	25 TO 40	9 TO 16
EAU DE PARPUM	15 TO 25	6 TO 9
EAU DE TOILETTE	8 TO 15	4 TO 6
EAU DE COLOGNE	5 TO 15	2 TO 4
PERFUME MIST	3 TO 7	1 TO 2
SPLASH & AFTER SHAVE	1 TO 3	.30 TO 1
DEODORANTS SPRAY	.01 TO .09	.15 TO .45

 

 

Source : perfume lounge

 

 

 

 

 

 

(3) The 3 most common perfume fragrances you will purchase are:

 

 

 

PARFUM - This is one of the strongest perfume fragrance available. This means that you need to use less and the fragrance will last much longer depending on skin type.  Will last 6 to 8 hours.

 

EAU DE PARFUM - EDP  This is lighter than the Parfum and is less expensive, but still has long lasting fragrance smell.  Will last from 3 to 5 hours.

 

EAU DE TOILETTE - EDT  This is a lighter fragrance and is therefore most used for the casual everyday use.  It is less expensive than Eau de Parfum.  Will lasts for 2 to 4 hours.

 

 

 

FRAGRANCE TIPS:

 

     Spray a mist of your favorite fragrance scent on your hairbrush.  The aroma will last for hours and make your hair smell wonderful!!  Some people will even spray a few squirts of thier favorite fragrance directly into their shampoo and/or conditioner for a added fragrance smell.
     As we all know, fragrance scent rises, so for a longer last to your perfume smell, spray all your pulse points, from your ankles, behind the knee, wrist, inside your arm, neckline, etc.... Remember to FIRST put on your fragrance scented body lotion or body creme before your perfume, this will help ensure your smell will last hours longer and you will not need to use as much of your perfume :).  So, if you get the gift set with all those added fragrance goodies, use them!! Thank you for reading this Guide, hope it has helped.

 

 

Source : perfume lounge

 

 

 

 

 

 

(4) Fragrances: What is the difference between "perfume", "eau de toilette" and "cologne"?

 

 

 

     The base of any perfume you can buy in the shops will be the 'perfume essence', this is what actually makes the smell. This is a combination of essential oils (cedar wood, lime, sandalwood etc), absolutes (jasmine, rose, neroli), animal extracts (musk, ambergris) and synthetic fragrance (this could be nearly anything). This base perfume essence would actually not be that attractive by itself and in some cases would be actually unpleasant. It is too concentrated, so it needs to be diluted and this is done with alcohol and water. Fragrances come in many forms and have many different names but generally the main four categories are as follows:

 

Perfume: The perfume you see in the store is not the pure perfume essence and has been diluted. However it is the most concentrated of all the fragrance options and it is the most expensive for this reason. It tends to be slightly oilier and will typically contain 15-40% pure perfume extract. It has a slightly thicker, oilier consistency. It tends to be sold with 'stopper bottles' and not sprays. It is too strong to spray all over (and too expensive). The percentage of pure perfume extract is not necessarily an indicator of the quality of perfume though. As mentioned there are many essential oils that you wouldn't want to smell like in small doses (spikenard comes to mind). Real musk and ambergris are expensive and not pleasant in their pure form, so whereas a single drop can dramatically increase the price of a perfume, but you wouldn't want more than that single drop, which would be sublime. 

 

Eau de Perfume/(Parfum): This uses the same perfume essence but less of it and more alcohol and water. This means the smell is a bit lighter and usually doesn't last quite as long, but as it is a bit lighter, many find this preferable. It is of course cheaper. Typically there will be 10-20% perfume essence in Eau de Perfume. This perfume might be sold in normal bottles or sprays, but if a spray is used, it shouldn't be just doused all over.

 

Eau de Toilette: This is lighter still and usually sold in spray bottles. The lightness of it makes it more suitable to spray more liberally, the high alcohol content means it will not last very long. Generally this version is the most advisable to use day to day as it is less intense and even if you do use too much it will lighten up fairly quickly. Typically there will be 4-15% pure perfume essence. 

 

Eau de Cologne: Cologne is an abbreviation of 'eau de Cologne' and is the French word for the city of Köln where a particular scent was first made hence it was a water from Cologne. There are specific blends of fragrances that fall in this particular category of 'eau de cologne', they are very light, fresh and fruity and contain the essential oils, lemon, bergamot, orange and also the absolute neroli. They may also contain the essential oils lavender and rosemary.

 

     These days though, eau de cologne or cologne is also used to determine the most diluted version of the perfume. Typically 2-5%. These are rarely used in expensive perfumes, but tend to be more 'splash' kind of perfumes or fragrances for younger people.

 

NOTE : The percentages I have given for perfume essence compared to total product are just guidelines. There are no universally agreed ratios and they will vary from source to source.

 

Source Tatiana Estévez, (quora)

 

 

 

 

 

 

(5) Fragrance Notes

 

 

 

     Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes, making the harmonious scent accord. The notes unfold over time, with the immediate impression of the top note leading to the deeper middle notes, and the base notes gradually appearing as the final stage. These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume.

 

Top notes: Also called the head notes. The scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume. Top notes consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly. They form a person's initial impression of a perfume and thus are very important in the selling of a perfume. Examples of top notes include mint, lavender and coriander.

 

Middle notes: Also referred to as heart notes. The scent of a perfume that emerges just prior to the dissipation of the top note. The middle note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. Examples of middle notes include seawater, sandalwood and jasmine.

 

Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears close to the departure of the middle notes. The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume. Compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after application. Examples of base notes include tobacco, amber and musk.

 

     The scents in the top and middle notes are influenced by the base notes, as well the scents of the base notes will be altered by the type of fragrance materials used as middle notes. Manufacturers of perfumes usually publish perfume notes and typically they present it as fragrance pyramid, with the components listed in imaginative and abstract terms.

 

 

 

source : perfume lounge

 

 

 

 

 

 

(6) Olfactive Families

 

 

 

     Grouping perfumes can never be a completely objective or final process. Many fragrances contain aspects of different families. Even a perfume designated as "single flower", however subtle, will have undertones of other aromatics. "True" unitary scents can rarely be found in perfumes as it requires the perfume to exist only as a singular aromatic material.

 

 

Classification by olfactive family is a starting point for a description of a perfume, but it cannot by itself denote the specific characteristic of that perfume.

 

 

 

 

Traditional

 

 

The traditional classification which emerged around 1900 comprised the following categories:

 

Single Floral: Fragrances that are dominated by a scent from one particular flower; in French called a soliflore. (e.g. Serge Lutens' Sa Majeste La Rose, which is dominated by rose.)

 

Floral Bouquet: Is a combination of fragrance of several flowers in a perfume compound. Examples include Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant and Joy by Jean Patou.

 

Amber or "Oriental": A large fragrance class featuring the sweet slightly animalic scents of ambergris or labdanum, often combined with vanilla, tonka bean, flowers and woods. Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and incense resins, which bring to mind Victorian era imagery of the Middle East and Far East. Traditional examples include Guerlain's Shalimar, Yves Saint Laurent's Opium and Chanel's Coco Mademoiselle.

 

Woody: Fragrances that are dominated by woody scents, typically of agarwood, sandalwood, cedarwood, and vetiver. Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these perfumes. A traditional example here would be Myrurgia's Maderas De Oriente or Chanel Bois des Îles. A modern example would be Balenciaga Rumba.

 

Leather: A family of fragrances which features the scents of honey, tobacco, wood and wood tars in its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather. Traditional examples include Robert Piguet's Bandit and Balmain's Jolie Madame.

 

Chypre : Meaning Cyprus in French, this includes fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum. This family of fragrances is named after the eponymous 1917 perfume by François Coty, and one of the most famous extant examples is Guerlain's Mitsouko.

 

Fougère : Meaning fern in French, built on a base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss. Houbigant's Fougère Royale pioneered the use of this base. Many men's fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is characterized by its sharp herbaceous and woody scent. Some well-known modern fougères are Fabergé Brut and Guy Laroche Drakkar Noir.

 

 

 

Modern

 

 

Since 1945, due to great advances in the technology of perfume creation (i.e., compound design and synthesis) as well as the natural development of styles and tastes, new categories have emerged to describe modern scents:

 

Bright Floral: combining the traditional Single Floral & Floral Bouquet categories. A good example would be Estée Lauder's Beautiful.

 

Green: a lighter and more modern interpretation of the Chypre type, with pronounced cut grass, crushed green leaf and cucumber-like scents. Examples include Estée Lauder's Aliage, Sisley's Eau de Campagne, and Calvin Klein's Eternity.

 

Aquatic, Oceanic, or Ozonic: the newest category in perfume history, first appearing in 1988 Davidoff Cool Water (1988), Christian Dior's Dune (1991), and many others. A clean smell reminiscent of the ocean, leading to many of the modern androgynous perfumes. Generally contains calone, a synthetic scent discovered in 1966, or other more recent synthetics. Also used to accent floral, oriental, and woody fragrances.

 

Citrus: An old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of "freshening" eau de colognes, due to the low tenacity of citrus scents. Development of newer fragrance compounds has allowed for the creation of primarily citrus fragrances. A good example here would be Faberge Brut.

 

Fruity: featuring the aromas of fruits other than citrus, such as peach, cassis (black currant), mango, passion fruit, and others. A modern example here would be Ginestet Botrytis.

 

Gourmand (French): scents with "edible" or "dessert" like qualities. These often contain notes like vanilla, tonka bean and coumarin, as well as synthetic components designed to resemble food flavors. A sweet example is Thierry Mugler's Angel.

 

 

                           

 

 

Source : perfume lounge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                                                                                                                                            

 

 

 

 

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